Solid wood is used primarily where strength and structural stability are factors. Legs, for example are made from solid wood.

MDF or medium density fiberboard is the material of choice for furniture that is to be hand painted. It is composed of finely ground hardwood that has been blended with glues and compressed to form a board that is absent of grain direction. It is this characteristic that renders medium density fiberboard dimensionally more stable than solid wood. An artist must choose a dimensionally stable surface upon which to create a painting or faux finish. Wood, however, is hygroscopic, meaning that it shrinks and swells with moisture. In other words, all wood will try to equalize to the surrounding atmosphere, absorbing and expelling moisture as it swells and shrinks constantly across the direction of the grain. Wood shrinks and swells more across the grain than with the grain. Where no grain direction is present, such movement does not occur and hand painted finishes will not shift, as they tend to do on solid wood. For this application, panels made of MDF are more practical. Where suitable, many pieces also include hardwood solids and veneers. (e.g. carved legs may be hardwood solids.)

Some assembly is required on most items. This may range anywhere from attaching of door handles to installation of legs. Wherever installation is required, simple easy to follow instructions are included.

Liquid spills will damage furniture if not removed promptly. If a spill occurs, immediately blot it gently without rubbing the surface. To clean stains or food spills, use a soft cloth, lightly moistened with a well-mixed solution of one teaspoon powdered laundry detergent and a quart of warm water. Dry completely after cleaning.

Avoid dry dusting as microscopic scratches may result. In addition, do change dust cloths frequently as a dirty cloth may scratch furniture surfaces. For regular, frequent dusting, a clean, soft, lint-free dust cloth, slightly dampened with water is suggested. Polishes that contain detergents, emulsifiers, and mineral oil are not harmful. Their use is optional, based on individual need. In homes where dusting is done less frequently and/or environmental pollutants are more abundant, dusting should always be done with a polish-moistened cloth. Polish cushions the cloth, eliminating the scratching that occurs with dry dusting.

Furniture polishes containing silicone cleaners are strongly discouraged as they create a high sheen barrier that repels not only water but also touch-up and refinishing products. Should any damage occur, touching-up and re-finishing those areas becomes virtually impossible. Waxes are to be avoided as their regular use results in a build-up that attracts airborne impurities such as pollutants, smoke, and dirt, which can leave smudges and streaks. The grit found in many waxes might also have a damaging effect.

Switching between types of polish is particularly undesirable, as streaky or cloudy surfaces will result from this action. Leather covered surfaces are best cared for in the same fashion as furniture upholstered in leather.

The difference between real leather and its varied imitations is the fact that real leather will show slight variations in texture or in color, as well as a few wrinkles, insect bites and healed scars. These are not defects, but are inherent to the natural beauty of this product. Certain tanning processes are even geared towards featuring these natural characteristics so as to create an aged or antiqued effect. This vintage look makes a highly appreciated fashion statement. With proper usage and upkeep, leather will only improve with time. It ages beautifully with a minimum amount of care: regular dustings, a light cleaning with a humid cloth and a very mild soap. A quick sponging away of any spilled liquid is always necessary. Strong soaps, detergents, domestic cleaners, as well as any greasy or oily cleaning products are not recommended. Where a stain has occurred, the entire section where it is located must be cleaned. Professional assistance is recommended for major stains. As with wooden furniture, leather furniture should not be placed in full sunlight or close to an intense, drying heat source. Where pull-up leathers are concerned, pronounced color changes will result.

Many common problems in furniture care are caused by its surroundings. Sunlight’s ultraviolet rays can damage virtually all furniture. Furniture is best arranged away from the harmful direct rays of the sun. The use of protective window coverings is a must during hours when sunlight is most intense. Furniture should be occasionally rotated in place and in room arrangements. Use coasters under beverage glasses, saucers under cups and flowerpots. Heat creates a chemical change in the furniture finish potentially resulting in a white surface spot. Use protective pads under hot dishes, utensils or cooking appliances. Hot blasts of air such as those found from central heating ducts should be avoided because they cause extreme localized drying of the wood. A general rule of thumb is that if the humidity level in the home is healthy for its residents, then the environment will also be friendly to its furniture, both wood and leather.

Both conventional and hand-painted wood finishes have a high degree of variation in tones. Professional technicians, experienced in custom blending colors for touch up best execute repairs and touch-ups. Skilled technicians are also capable of repairing leather furniture. For optimum results, furniture repair and touch-up is not to be considered a “do-it-yourself” undertaking. Stone tops and their care

Solid granite, a relatively hard, non-porous stone, is used for many items with a stone top. Granite begins as liquid magma from deep within the earth’s core. It is extremely dense and is formed from quartz, feldspar and mica. Granite is harder and heavier than marble, and is not as subject to staining and is less prone to scratching. Marble, being more porous and more prone to staining becomes more carefree when acrylic coatings are factory applied for protection. The tell tale sign of a protective coating on a marble top is a warmer than expected surface temperature.

Being virtually non-porous, granite will withstand most stains. Using coasters, place mats or other protective coverings when placing sharp items on granite surfaces may prevent scratching of tops granite and marble tops.

Harsh, caustic chemical cleaners should be avoided. Granite surfaces should be cleaned with a clean damp cloth periodically to remove dust and debris. Occasionally, on heavily soiled surfaces, a mild, non-abrasive cleaner and water may be used to freshen up the appearance. An example of such a cleaner is a neutral, mild vegetable oil based cleaner such as Murphy’s Oil Soap. Soil acts as an abrasive, so cleaning is best done while the surface of the granite top is thoroughly wet. A gentle cleaning solution will be more effective if allowed to rest on the surface for several minutes first.

Marble and granite suppliers and hardware stores may also recommend many fine products that are available to protect natural stone tops. A thin even layer of such a specialty polish can build up a clear, protective coating. The use of such products is entirely optional.